Array of Cosmetic Compositions for Camouflaging Tonal Imperfections

ABSTRACT

An array of cosmetic compositions intended to camouflage imperfections on human skin in a targeted manner is provided. The array includes two or more different cosmetic compositions, each cosmetic composition having a metal oxide. The different cosmetic compositions each have an L* value within the range of from about 60 to about 90. In addition, one or more of the cosmetic compositions from the array will effectively camouflage imperfections on a consumer&#39;s skin if they have an average skin L* value between 35 and 75.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present application relates to an array of cosmetic compositionsintended to camouflage tonal imperfections on keratinous surfaces andmore particularly, an array of cosmetic compositions that are designedto hide skin imperfections on the entire range of global skin tones byusing targeted precision deposition techniques and very narrow range ofshades when compared to existing cosmetic solutions.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Cosmetic and skin care products that are designed to even out skin toneare commonplace. Examples of such products are cosmetic foundations,combination skin and cosmetic products like “BB” and “CC” creams, tintedmoisturizers, and the like. These products come in many different forms.These forms can include liquids, creams and gels, creamy compacts,pressed and loose powders, and atomized sprays. These products aredesigned to even out skin tone by covering the imperfections with acomposition designed to match the color of the user's skin. However, dueto the wide range of human skin tones, a multitude of shades is neededin order to meet the needs of users across ethnicities, ages, andgeographies. The higher the opacity of the product, the more shades thatare required in order for the product to be useful over the widespectrum of human skin tones. Lower opacity products like “BB” and “CC”creams and tinted moisturizers are commonly sold in 3 to 5 differentshades. Higher opacity products like foundations are commonly sold in 12to 30 different shades.

In addition, the more coverage of the imperfection these traditionalproducts provide, the less natural the skin appearance can become. Thisunnatural appearance can be caused by multiple factors. Firstly,government regulatory agencies around the globe have created a limitedlist of colorants that are approved for use on human skin. This approvedlist of colorants has fundamental limitations in how closely they cancreate a visible wavelength spectral reflectance profile that perfectlymatches that of human skin. This forces users to try to get as close aspossible to their skin color. However, the skin color match is rarelyclose enough for the product to appear invisible on the skin. Second,traditional products are fundamentally monochromatic. Even the mostflawless looking skin is still composed of a multitude of shades acrossthe face. Thus, the more coverage of the underlying skin, the moremonochromatic the skin can become and the less natural it can appear. Athird cause of this unnatural appearance is the manner in which lightreflects from the surface of bare skin versus the way light reflectsfrom a pigmented film formed by the product on the skin. Skin innatelyhas a complex interaction with visible light. Part of the light isreflected from the upper layers of the stratum corneum while part of thelight penetrates through the stratum corneum into the dermal andcollagen layers before reflecting back out of the skin. Yet anotherportion of light laterally diffuses through the collagen layer beforereflecting back out. In general, the amount of light reflected frombelow the surface of the skin can be correlated to a desirable skinattribute that consumers often refer to as “radiance”. With currenttraditional skin evening products, the more coverage and skin eveningthey impart, the less light they allow to penetrate into the skin. Thisgives an unnatural visual effect as more of the light is reflecting offof the pigmented film on the surface of the skin, leading to a “flat”mannequin-like look.

In addition, current cosmetic compositions rely on color-matching theskin to attempt to hide tonal skin imperfections. This results in twoundesirable options. First, the cosmetic foundations available in anarray are not an exact match for the consumer's skin tone, resulting inan unsatisfactory result. Alternatively, a very large array of cosmeticfoundations is offered in which a consumer will have great difficulty infinding the correct match.

Therefore, a need still exists for an array of cosmetic compositionsthat will effectively camouflage tonal imperfections for any consumerwhile presenting a fairly narrow range of options, making the selectionprocess less onerous.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

An array of cosmetic compositions intended to camouflage imperfectionson human skin in a targeted manner is provided. The array includes twoor more different cosmetic compositions, each cosmetic compositionhaving a metal oxide. The metal oxide may be zinc oxide, iron oxide,titanium oxide or a mixture. The different cosmetic compositions eachhave an L* value within the range of from about 60 to about 90. Inaddition, one or more of the cosmetic compositions from the array willeffectively camouflage imperfections on a consumer's skin if they havean average skin L* value between 35 and 75.

In one embodiment, the L* value for each of the cosmetic compositions iswithin the range of from about 65 to about 85. In another embodiment,the L* value for each of the cosmetic compositions is within the rangeof from about 65 to about 85, and one or more of the cosmeticcompositions from the array will effectively camouflage imperfections ona consumer's skin if the consumer has an average skin L* value between35 and 75.

In one embodiment, the two or more different cosmetic compositions eachhave an opacity of at least 0.2. In another embodiment, the two or moredifferent cosmetic compositions each have an opacity of from about 0.2to about 1. In yet another embodiment, the two or more differentcosmetic compositions each have an opacity of 0.25 to about 1.0. In oneembodiment, the two or more different cosmetic compositions each have anopacity of 0.3 to about 1.0.

In another embodiment, the two or more different cosmetic compositionseach have a C* value, and the C* value for each of the cosmeticcompositions is within the range of from about 15 to about 45. In oneembodiment, the C* value for each of the cosmetic compositions is withinthe range of from about 20 to about 40.

In one embodiment, the two or more different cosmetic compositions eachhave an h* value, and the h* value for each of the cosmetic compositionsis within the range of about 50 to about 80.

In another embodiment, the metal oxide has a particle size from about100 nm to about 50 microns. In one embodiment, the metal oxide has aparticle size from about 200 nm to about 10 microns.

In one embodiment, the array comprises from about two to about tendifferent cosmetic compositions. In another embodiment, the arraycomprises from about three to about seven different cosmeticcompositions. In one embodiment, array comprises four different cosmeticcompositions.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

While the specification concludes with claims particularly pointing outand distinctly claiming the present invention, it is believed the samewill be better understood from the following description taken inconjunction with the accompanying drawings in which:

FIG. 1 is a schematic representation of an analytical window accordingto the present invention wherein skin is analyzed by a deposition deviceuseful in the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a deposition device useful in the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a cartridge useful in the present invention;

FIG. 4 is the natural, uncovered skin of a female user;

FIG. 5 is the same female user in FIG. 4 with applied makeup; and,

FIG. 6 is the same female user as shown in FIG. 4, with no makeup on,after using the deposition device useful in the present invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

As used herein “basal skin” refers to bare skin free of cosmetics, skincare products, or other compositions.

As used herein “camouflage” means to hide or make a tonal imperfectionless visible by seamlessly blending it with the surrounding keratinoussurface. A keratinous surface can be human skin and/or hair.

As used herein “CIE (Commission internationale de l'éclairage) L*C*h*”or “CIELCh” is a color space specified by the International Commissionon Illumination. It describes all the colors visible to the human eyeand was created to serve as a device-independent model to be used as areference. “L*C*h*” refers to the commonly known color model representedby a three-dimensional 1976 CIE color space. L*C*h* is the cylinderwhose axes are defined by the dimensions of lightness value (L*), chromavalue (C*) and hue value (h*). Color values are reported at D65/10°lighting/observer unless noted otherwise.

As used herein, “chroma” refers to the quality of a color's purity,intensity or saturation.

As used herein, “chroma value” (C*) refers to the position in the CIELChcolor space in the range from 0 at the center of the circle, which iscompletely unsaturated (i.e. a neutral grey, black or white), to 100 ormore at the edge of the circle, which is completely saturated. A colorhaving a high chroma value is vivid, almost completely free of white,while a color having a low chroma value is dull, washed-out, and pale inappearance.

As used herein, the term “effectively camouflage” means to camouflage atonal imperfection such that the tonal imperfection is not perceivableby the human eye without the aid of magnifying apparatuses.

As used herein, “hue” refers to what is commonly called color, i.e.,red, green, blue-green, orange, etc.

As used herein, “hue value” (h*) refers to the position on a circularaxis that an object can be described in CIELCh color space in the formof degrees (°) (or angles), ranging from 0° (red) through 90° (yellow),180° (green), 270° (blue) and back to 0°.

As used herein, “lightness” is a representation of variation in theperception of a color or color space's brightness.

As used herein “lightness value” (L*) refers to the vertical position inthe CIELCh color space from 0, which has no lightness (i.e. absoluteblack) at the bottom, through 50 in the middle, to 100, which is maximumlightness (i.e. absolute white) at the top.

As used herein “shade” refers to the combination of L*C*h* values for aparticular object (e.g. skin or composition).

As used herein “targeted deposition” refers to the delivery of acomposition substantially only onto the tonal imperfection to correctand/or change the color of the tonal imperfection to match thesurrounding keratinous surface.

As used herein “tonal imperfection” refers to an area of keratinoussurface which is different in color, typically darker, than thesurrounding keratinous surface.

As used herein, the articles “a” and “an” are understood to mean one ormore of the material that is claimed or described.

All weights, measurements and concentrations herein are measured at 23°C. and 50% relative humidity (RH), unless otherwise specified.

All percentages, parts and ratios as used herein are by weight of thetotal composition, unless otherwise specified. All such weights as theypertain to listed ingredients are based on the active level and,therefore do not include solvents or by-products that may be included incommercially available materials, unless otherwise specified.

The present invention provides an array of cosmetic compositions thatare designed to hide skin imperfections on the entire range of globalskin tones by using targeted precision deposition techniques and anarrow range of shades when compared to existing cosmetic solutions. Thecosmetic compositions of the array can be utilized by users who have avariety of skin lightness, chroma, and/or hues. In one aspect, precisedeposition of a pigmented cosmetic composition comprising a particularset of L*C*h* values can result in natural, flawless looking skin, whilestill remaining substantially undetectable to the naked eye.

Included are embodiments of inventions that create precise deposition ofa cosmetic formulation that camouflage skin imperfections while lookingcompletely natural to the naked eye. The current invention is based on afundamentally new deposition model that no prior embodiments canemulate. The first element of the new deposition model is that productis precisely placed only on the imperfections themselves (i.e.,“targeted deposition”). Depending on the method of analysis and theconsumer's level of imperfections the percentage of surface area that istargeted with cosmetic varies, however most consumers can achievedramatic skin evening by targeting and depositing onto less than 20% ofthe skin. This leaves more than 80% of the skin bare which dramaticallyimproves the natural appearance of skin as the light is able to interactnaturally with the majority of the skin without interference from thecosmetic film. The second element of the new deposition model is thatthe cosmetic product itself is not intended to match the shade of theconsumer's skin. When placed precisely only on the imperfection it ispossible to use the cosmetic product to shift the lightness and darknessof the imperfection rather than to completely hide the imperfection.Visual color space is most accurately measured using a spectrometer thatcan graph the amount of reflectance across the visible spectralfrequencies of 400-700 nm. One mathematical representation of thespectral profile is through use of a color standard like CIE LCh colorspace which is designed to represent how the human eye sees color. Inthe CIE LCh color standard L is the degree of lightness, C is the chroma(the intensity of the color) and h is the hue angle (0-360). It ispossible to camouflage imperfections by precisely targeting anddepositing opaque product that is lighter than the color of thebackground skin and to lift the spot's lightness to match that of theaverage skin lightness. However, since previous disclosures wereconducted with a very small portion of the global skin color population,only a narrow range of products were used. What was not understood wasthe range of LCh of products that would be needed to be to meet thetotal range of global skin tones. The present invention has identified avery specific range of LCh of products that are needed to hide tonalskin imperfections for all consumers so that they appear invisible tothe naked eye.

As has been discussed, all current skin care and cosmetic productsdesigned to hide skin imperfections are designed to have an LCh of theproduct match as close to the LCh of the skin tone as possible.Therefore the range of LCh of the products matches the range of LCh ofglobal consumers. As such, the range of shades for currently availableproducts that are designed to hide imperfections is huge, making shadeselection a very difficult task. The present invention has found asolution to this problem.

All human skin is composed of the same building blocks that create itsvisual macroscopic color: melanin, oxygenated hemoglobin, un-oxygenatedhemoglobin, and collagen. These building blocks are combined in a widevariety of manners to form different skin tones. The range of skinlightness, or L* using the CIE LCh color standard, across allgeographies and ethnicities has been found to be approximately 35-75 Itis also known that human skin has an h* value of about 30 to about 75,and a C* value of about 5 to about 30. These building blocks arecombined in a wide variety of manners across different ethnicities, agesand geographies.

As has been discussed the range of human skin tones has been studied innumerous research activities. Due to the current technical model ofhiding skin imperfections shared by all existing cosmetics the range oflightness of offered is similarly broad. One of the many examples wouldinclude L'Oreal True Match liquid form foundation which has one of thelargest range of shades of any commercial foundation product whichoffers 33 “skin true” shades. All of the LCh colors are measured using adried down film rather than a wet product measurement as the driedproduct represents the state that the product will exist on skin postapplication by a consumer and is therefore most relevant. In thisproduct range the lightest shade is W1 “Porcelain” which has an L* valueof 79 a C* value of 21 and a h* value of 62. The darkest shade in theproduct line is C10 “Espresso” which has an L* value of 32 a C* value of12 and an h* value of 46. Thus the range of L values of the productoffering is closely matched to that of all human skin tones. Anotherexample of commercially available foundations is Mac creamy compact form“Full Coverage Foundation” which offers 16 shades and is claimed to be“A foundation that's both water-resistant and long-wearing with opaquecoverage.” In this product line the lightest product shade is “NC15”which has an L* value of 74 a C* value of 20 and an h* value of 61. Thedarkest shade in the product line is “NW50” which has an L* value of 40a C* value of 22 and an h* value of 54. In yet another example ofcommercially available cosmetics designed to hide tonal imperfections isa lower coverage product range like Bobby Brown's “BB Cream SPF 35” lineof products which comes in 9 shades. In this product line the lightestshade is “Extra Light” which has an L* value of 71 a C* value of 23 andan h* value of 60. The darkest shade in the product line is “Deep” whichhas an L* value of 38 a C* value of 32 and an h* value of 53. As hasbeen shown in each of these examples the shade range of the cosmeticproducts are all designed to have a shade range similar to that of humanskin.

The current invention discloses an array of products that are appliedvia a precise targeted deposition method that applies cosmetic only tothe tonal imperfections and utilizes a range of shades that does notmirror that of the range of human skin tones. Because the product isprecisely applied to the only the hyper-pigmented areas of skin itenables a new method of correcting skin imperfections. This methodapplies a product significantly lighter than that of the skin in orderto lift the lightness of the spot to match that of the surrounding skin.The present invention has identified the product shade range needed tocorrect the imperfections of the entire range of global skin shades.Surprisingly it was found that the range of product shades that is ableto best correct the tonal imperfections of the entire range of humanskin shades is a much narrower range of shades than any current cosmeticproduct range.

As has been previously disclosed in US2015360016A1 there is a new way tocorrect skin imperfections, particularly hyperpigmentation, in which youprecisely deposit a composition that is significantly lighter in shadethan the basal skin. Previous disclosures of targeted deposition did notrecognize the role of chroma and hue of the applied composition across awide range of skin tones would need to be in order to correct theimperfection in a manner that makes it macroscopically invisible to thenaked eye. The present invention involved testing a wide range ofproduct shades and consumer skin tones and determined that there arespecific ranges of LCh values of product that best correct consumerswith specific ranges of skin LCh in order to enable the preciselytargeted depositions to be invisible to the naked eye. Moreover it hasbeen discovered that this range of shades, unlike conventional cosmeticproducts is much narrower than that of the range of global skin tones.

It is known that one has to match the chroma and hue of human skin inorder to give the appearance of natural skin when using a foundation orsimilar product. It was surprisingly found that matching the shade, orL*C*h* values, of a pigmented cosmetic composition to the skin tone isnot required, but rather it is preferable to adjust the shade of thecomposition according to variable skin tones and imperfections withL*C*h* values that do not attempt to match the basal skin.

Targeted deposition techniques which precisely deposit a compositiononto tonal imperfections in order to correct tonal imperfection areknown. Such compositions can comprise a L* value higher than the user'sbasal skin. However, the maximum range of L* values for compositionswhich can camouflage tonal imperfections across substantially the entirespectrum of skin tones was not known. In addition, the role of the C*value of the composition in the correction of tonal imperfections wasnot understood. In particular, it was unknown the C* value of theapplied composition that was needed to correct tonal imperfectionsacross a wide range of skin tones.

As skin tones vary across different populations and/or ages, the maximumdelta (□) L*, calculated as the average composition L* value minus theaverage skin L* value, that is tolerable (i.e. not visible to the nakedeye, yet still covers the imperfection) changes. If the □L* is too high,the composition can be visible and can appear ashy or white on the skin.This can occur on both dark and light skin tones.

It has been found that pigmented cosmetic compositions comprising anaverage composition L* value substantially greater than that the averageL* value of the user can camouflage tonal imperfections in a manner thatmakes it macroscopically invisible to the naked eye and can be utilizedacross a wide range of skin tones. In one aspect, the pigmented cosmeticcompositions can comprise an average composition L* value of betweenabout 10 to about 40 units greater than the average skin L* value,preferably between about 15 to about 35 units greater, and even morepreferably between about 20 to about 35 units greater. In one aspect,the pigmented cosmetic composition can have an average composition L*value of at least 10 units greater than the average skin L* value of theuser, preferably at least 15 units greater, and even more preferably atleast 20 units greater. The average skin L* value can be measuredaccording to the LCh Test Method for Skin described hereafter. Theaverage composition L* value can be measured according to the LCh TestMethod for Compositions described hereinafter.

The pigmented cosmetic composition can also comprise an □C* between thecomposition and skin of the user of about 25 or less, alternatively lessthan about 20, alternatively less than about 18. The average □C* can becalculated as the average composition C* value minus the average skin C*value of the user. The difference between the average cosmetic C* valueand the average skin C* value should increase as the user's average skinL* value decreases. In one aspect, the □C* can be from about 0 to about14 for light and/or medium skin tones (for instance Fitzpatrick ScaleTypes I-IV), alternatively the □C* can be from about 0 to about 10. Inanother aspect, the □C* can be from about 8 to about 21 for medium-darkand/or dark skin tones (for instance Fitzpatrick Scale Types V-VI). Theaverage skin C* value can be measured according to the LCh Test Methodfor Skin described hereafter. The average composition C* value can bemeasured according to the LCh Test Method for Compositions describedhereinafter.

While not wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that thiscombination of lightness and chroma is needed due to small list ofcolorants that are FD&C approved for use on human skin, thus limitingthe use of pigmentary grade titanium dioxide for high opacity formulas.It was found that titanium dioxide has a blue component that becomesmore obvious on darker skin tones, thus a higher chroma component isneeded to offset the color shift on darker skin.

In one aspect, the pigmented cosmetic compositions can comprise multipleshades with one having an average composition L* value from about 85 toabout 80, another from about 79 to about 75, and yet another from about74 to about 65.

In one aspect, the pigmented cosmetic compositions can comprise multipleshades with one having an average composition C* value of from about 40to about 35, another from about 34 to about 30, another yet from about29 to about 20.

In one aspect, the pigmented cosmetic compositions can comprise multipleshades with one having an average composition h* value of from about 80to about 70, another from about 69 to about 60, and yet another fromabout 59 to about 50. The average composition h* value can be measuredaccording to the LCh Test Method for Compositions described hereinafter.

Any combination of opacifiers and colorants can be used to obtain thedesired shade of the pigmented cosmetic composition. One skilled in theart would understand how to formulate a pigmented cosmetic compositionusing a range of pigments to arrive at the desired L*C*h* values. Inks,dyes, metal oxides and pigments (collectively referred to as “colorants”hereinafter) can be used to modify the color or reflectance of the skin.Opacifier and colorant combinations should be used in a range ofparticle sizes and viscosities that can be deposited efficiently onhuman skin.

In one aspect, a method of camouflaging a tonal imperfection cancomprise the steps of:

-   -   a. identifying a skin tone of a user comprising a tonal        imperfection;    -   b. instructing a user to select a pigmented cosmetic composition        adapted to camouflage a tonal imperfection based on the user's        skin tone;    -   c. optionally providing a guide to the user that allows the user        to select the pigmented cosmetic composition, wherein the        pigmented cosmetic composition is available in different shades        and the guide recommends a specific shade;    -   d. selecting the pigmented cosmetic composition;    -   e. selectively targeting and depositing the selected pigmented        cosmetic composition onto the tonal imperfection;    -   wherein the pigmented cosmetic composition comprises an average        composition L* value of about 10 to about 40 units greater than        an average skin L* value of the user.

The skin tone of a user can be identified by the LCh Test Method forSkin, as described hereinafter, by Fitzpatrick Scale, by comparing auser's skin to a color guide comprising images and/or descriptions ofdifferent skin tones, by taking a picture of the user's skin andanalyzing the skin tone, by measuring using a tool such as a SephoraColor IQ or SKII Magic Ring, or other equivalent approaches. In oneaspect, the skin tone of a user can be identified based on ethnicity.

The Fitzpatrick scale (also commonly referred to as the “Fitzpatrickskin typing test” or “Fitzpatrick phototyping scale”) is a numericalclassification schema for human skin color developed in 1975 by ThomasB. Fitzpatrick. It is a way to estimate the response of different typesof skin to ultraviolet (UV) light, based on the user's report of howtheir skin responds to the sun (i.e. burning and tanning). TheFitzpatrick Scale is a recognized tool for dermatological research intohuman skin pigmentation. The following list shows the six skin types onthe Fitzpatrick Scale. Scores are based on standard questions thatassign a number to eye, hair, and skin color, amount of freckles,sensitivity to the sun (i.e. burning versus tanning) and the timeframeof the last sun exposure.

-   -   Type I (scores 0-6) always burns, never tans (pale white; blond        or red hair; blue, gray eyes; freckles);    -   Type II (scores 7-13) usually burns, tans minimally (white;        fair; blond, brown or red hair; blue, green, or hazel eyes);    -   Type III (scores 14-20) sometimes mild burn, tans uniformly        (cream white; yellowish; fair with any hair color or brown        eyes);    -   Type IV (scores 21-27) burns minimally, always tans well (light        brown; olive; dark brown to black hair);    -   Type V (scores 28-34) very rarely burns, tans very easily        (brown); and    -   Type VI (scores 35-36) never burns, always tans (deeply        pigmented dark brown to darkest brown, black in complexion).

Fitzpatrick Scale types are known to be correlated with the L* value ofhuman skin tones. (See Lee, J. A., Osmanovic, S., Viana, M. A. G.,Kapur, R., Meghpara, B., & Edward, D. P. “Objective Measurement ofPeriocular Pigmentation.” Photodermatology, Photoimmunology &Photomedicine, 24.6 (2008): 285-290). An average skin L* value ofgreater than about 55 can correspond to a Fitzpatrick Scale Type I toIV. An average skin L* value of less than or equal to about 55 cancorrespond to a Fitzpatrick Scale Type V and VI.

In one aspect, a user can be asked one or more questions to determinewhat skin type she is on the Fitzpatrick Scale. In one aspect, the usercan be shown a range of printed or digitally displayed shades that arecalibrated to the six Fitzpatrick Scale Types and can be instructed toplace them against her own skin and to pick the correspondingFitzpatrick Scale Type that is closest to her own skin color. In anotheraspect, the user can be asked which shade of makeup she currently usesand can be provided a cross reference guide which groups common makeupshades and brands against the corresponding closest Fitzpatrick ScaleType.

Instructions can be provided to the user on how to select the shade ofthe pigmented cosmetic composition based on the user's skin tone. In oneaspect, when the user has a particular skin tone or Fitzpatrick type,the instructions can direct the user to select a particular pigmentedcosmetic composition. For instance, if the user has a Fitzpatrick TypeI-IV, the instructions can direct the user to select a light and/ormedium shade. Alternatively, if the user has a Fitzpatrick Type V-VI,the instructions can direct the user to select a medium-dark and/or darkshade. In one aspect, when the user has a skin Fitzpatrick Type I, II,III, or IV, the pigmented cosmetic composition should have an averagecomposition L* value of from about 75 to about 85 and/or an averagecomposition C* value of about 22 to about 39. In one aspect, when theuser has a skin Fitzpatrick Type V or VI, the pigmented cosmeticcomposition should have an average composition L* value of from about 65to about 74 and/or an average composition C* value of about 30 to about40.

Guidance can be provided to help the user or a beauty consultant selectthe pigmented cosmetic composition that will best camouflage the tonalimperfection. The pigmented cosmetic composition can be available indifferent shades and the guide can recommend a specific shade that canbe used with a deposition device. In one aspect, the pigmented cosmeticcomposition can come in an array of four different shades which can beutilized by users across all Fitzpatrick Scale Types.

Guidance can come in the form of text, images, a color chart on apamphlet, package, store shelf, end-cap, and/or display, that indicateswhat shade of pigmented cosmetic composition a user should pick based onher skin tone. Alternatively, guidance can come from a person working ata store or beauty counter or a dermatologist, alternatively guidance cancome in the form of examples of the Fitzpatrick Scale types and thecorresponding shades that match the given Fitzpatrick Type. In oneaspect, the text or image can describe an ethnicity and direct the userto select a shade based on her ethnicity.

The user can apply the selected pigmented cosmetic composition onto thetonal imperfection using a deposition device. When placed on the tonalimperfection, it is possible to use the pigmented cosmetic compositionto shift the lightness, chroma, and/or hue of the tonal imperfectionrather than to completely hide the tonal imperfection. This approach tocamouflaging tonal imperfections is possible when the pigmented cosmeticcomposition is deposited precisely and substantially only onto the tonalimperfection and has a very fine level of dosage variability. In oneaspect, the pigmented cosmetic composition need not be deposited ontothe entire face or body. It is believed that if the pigmented cosmeticcomposition is deposited on the surrounding skin and not just the tonalimperfection, the skin will have an ashy or white appearance. Thus, thedeposition of the pigmented cosmetic composition is preferably deliveredby a device that can meter out picoliters of the composition rather thanthe microliter quantities typically applied from traditional personalcare applicators.

In one aspect, the deposition device can precisely target and depositthe pigmented cosmetic composition onto the tonal imperfection. Thepigmented cosmetic composition can be deposited onto the tonalimperfection by any means so long it targets the tonal imperfectionwhile leaving the surrounding skin substantially free of the pigmentedcosmetic composition. In one aspect, the pigmented cosmetic compositioncan be deposited onto the tonal imperfection via a kit for deposition byhand that aids the user in depositing small amounts of the pigmentedcosmetic composition substantially only onto the tonal imperfection. Inanother aspect, the pigmented cosmetic composition can be deposited ontothe tonal imperfection via a deposition device such as by inkjetdeposition such as thermal inkjet or piezo inkjet systems, directcontact using precision dabbing or stamping tools, atomized spraydeposition, and combinations thereof. Though many different types ofautomated application devices can be used, one preferred method ofdepositing the pigmented cosmetic composition utilizes inkjetdeposition.

An exemplary deposition device can analyze skin tonal imperfections anddeposit the pigmented cosmetic composition when a tonal imperfection isidentified. In one aspect, the deposition device can take at least oneimage of at least 10 μm² of skin and then calculate the averagebackground lightness of the image on a grey scale (lightness value on agrey scale is herein referred to as “L value”). Further, from the sameimage, a localized L value can be calculated for individual pixels or agroup of pixels. The local L value can then be compared to thebackground L value to identify skin deviations. A tonal imperfection isan area of skin where the absolute value of the difference between alocal L value and the background L, (this difference being defined as“ΔL_(M)” or the measured ΔL, “Δ” is commonly defined as the symbol for adifference between two values) is greater than a predetermined ΔL_(S)(wherein the “S” refers to a set ΔL). The background L can be preset, orcalculated by a variety of methods described below. The tonalimperfection is then treated with the pigmented cosmetic compositionhaving a predetermined or variable contrast ratio.

One characteristic of the pigmented cosmetic compositions of the presentinvention is the contrast ratio. The contrast ratio of the pigmentedcosmetic composition when depositing it onto a surface like skin ispreferably between 0.1 and 1.0, more preferably between 0.2 and 1.0, andmost preferably between 0.3 and 1.0. Herein, “contrast ratio” refers tothe opacity of the pigmented cosmetic compositions of the presentinvention, or the ability of the composition to reduce or prevent lighttransmission, determined after the composition is drawn onto an opacitychart (Form N2A, Leneta Company of Manwah, N.J. or the equivalentthereof) and by using a spectrophotometer with settings selected toexclude specular reflection. The composition is diluted with a 1%Stabylen 30 in DI water premix at a 10:1 ratio. It is applied to the topof the opacity chart and then is drawn into a film having a thickness ofapproximately 0.01 inches using a film applicator (e.g., as commerciallyavailable from BYK Gardner of Columbia, Md., or the equivalent thereof).The film is allowed to dry for 2 hours under conditions of 22° C.+/−1°C., 1 atm. Using a spectrophotometer, the Y tristimulus value (i.e., theXYZ color space of the film) of the film is measured and recorded. The Ytristimulus value is measured in three different areas of the film overthe black section of the opacity chart, and also in three differentareas of the film over the white section of the opacity chart.

The background L can be calculated anywhere within the image. The imageis taken where the nozzles will fire the pigmented cosmetic composition.The background L can be the arithmetic average, median, or mean of aplurality of local Ls, which means the calculation can include all ofthe local Ls in the image, or a subset thereof.

Referring now to FIG. 1, where analytical window 10 is an area thatcomprises a sample of skin 12 and nozzle array 20. The analytical windowcan be any shape including circular, square, rectangular, triangular, aparallelogram, or a polygon. Nozzle array 20 can contain one or morenozzles 24 that are off, or not firing, and one or more nozzles 22 thatare on, or firing. Tonal imperfection 30 is shown underneath nozzlearray section 32 and skin region 31 is shown underneath nozzle arrayregion 33. Background L is calculated on and around skin 12, skin area14 is where local L₁ is measured, and skin area 16 is where local L₂ ismeasured. Skin area 14 is under nozzle array 20 but not within a tonalimperfection. Thus, the absolute value of local L₁—background L(ΔL_(1M)) is less than the preset threshold to initiate nozzle firing.The ΔL_(S) threshold required to initiate nozzle firing is a variableand is dependent on the scale used. For example, in a case where the0-255 gray scale is utilized then the ΔL_(S) threshold required toinitiate nozzle firing would commonly be a value of 2 or greater. Thus,in the example shown in FIG. 1, the value of ΔL_(1M) is less than 2.Skin area 16 is within tonal imperfection 30, and the absolute value oflocal L2—background L (ΔL_(2M)) is greater than about 2. Thus, thenozzles around skin area 14 are generally off, and the nozzles aroundskin area 16 are generally firing.

To insure the nozzles do not clog with particles or dried pigmentedcosmetic composition, any nozzle can be fired at any time simply to keepit clean or clear, i.e., not blocked, and “healthy”. The number ofnozzles directly over a tonal imperfection that are fired in response tothe tonal imperfection can be adjusted based on the size of ΔL_(S), thesize (e.g., surface area) of the tonal imperfection or other parametersdevised by those skilled in the art.

Treatment times will vary based on the size of the skin surface areathat needs treatment and the precision and amount of the modification.For example, a woman may wish to simply touch up a few small areas onher face before going to the grocery store. This treatment might take afew minutes. Alternatively, a young bride might wear her wedding dressto a salon where a salon professional meticulously treats all exposedareas of skin prior to the wedding and the taking of her weddingpictures. This full body treatment might take hours. Accordingly, theuser will have tremendous control over the amount of time they choose touse the present device.

Referring now to FIG. 2, which shows deposition device 40 according tothe present invention. Deposition device 40 is directly above skin 18,separated by physical spacer 42. Physical spacer 42 has a set,predetermined height a such that when it contacts skin 18, themechanical and electrical elements are all at a known distance from skin18. The mechanical and electrical elements are associated withdeposition device 40 include, but are not be limited to, light 44,sensor 46, nozzle array 20 which is embedded on cartridge die 57 whichis attached to printer cartridge 52. Cartridge die 57 is made ofsilicon, glass, machineable glass ceramic, sapphire, alumina, printedwiring board substrates (for example, FR4, Liquid Crystal Polymer,polyimide etc,) within which the nozzle array 20 can be formed. All ofthese elements are enclosed within optional apparatus housing 41.

Light 44 illuminates the area of skin 18 within spacer 42 such thatsensor 46 has relatively constant illumination. Background lighting willaffect the image capture as portions of spacer 42 lift off of skin 18and allow background light in and the illumination from light 44 toescape, but small deviations in illumination can be corrected forprovided light 44 provides a relatively constant backgroundillumination. Light 44 can be a light emitting diode (LED), incandescentlight, neon bulb based, or any other commercially available source ofillumination. Light 44 can have constant illumination or adjustableillumination. For example, an adjustable light source might be useful ifthe background illumination is excessively bright or dark.

Sensor 46 can be any component that is capable of obtaining a visualproperty of an area of skin, non-limiting examples of which can includeimage capture devices, spectrophotometers, photonic measuring devicesfor wavelengths within the visible spectrum as well as those wavelengthsabove and below the visible spectrum which could measure sub-surfacefeatures, and combinations thereof.

In one aspect, sensor 46 can be an image capture device that is capableof taking images of the skin 18. The image capture device can be any ofa variety of commercially available devices such as a simple camera or adigital cmos camera chip. Sensor 46 can take a measurement of the Lvalue of skin 18 and/or can take an image of skin 18 and can send it toprocessor 50 via image capture line 48 for analysis. The image may beanalyzed for local L values, background L values, or both. Grey scaleconversion occurs within the analytical processing capabilities ofprocessor 50. The comparison of background L to local L to determine theΔL_(M) occurs within processor 50, which can be a commercially availableprogrammable chip, or other commercially available processing units.

Processor 50 is generally referred to as a central processing unit(“CPU”). The CPU can be a single programmable chip like those found inconsumer electronic devices such as a laptop computer, a cell phone, anelectric razor, and the like. The CPU may comprise an ApplicationSpecific Integrated Circuit (ASIC), controller, Field Programmable GateArray (FPGA), integrated circuit, microcontroller, microprocessor,processor, and the like. The CPU may also comprise memory functionality,either internal to the CPU as cache memory, for example Random AccessMemory (RAM), Static Random Access Memory (SRAM), and the like, orexternal to the CPU, for example as Dynamic Random-Access Memory (DRAM),Read Only Memory (ROM), Static RAM, Flash Memory (e.g., Compact Flash orSmartMedia cards), disk drives, Solid State Disk Drives (SSD), orInternet Cloud storage. While it is anticipated that a remote CPU,either tethered to the deposition device or which communicateswirelessly, can be used, a local CPU within the deposition device isexemplified herein.

Images can be taken in sequence or preferably continuously. An imagecapture device that takes a minimum of 4 frames per second is preferred.Higher speed image capture devices (greater than 4 frames per second)are desired as well, for example greater 100 frames per second,alternatively greater than 200 frames per second, alternatively greaterthan 600 frames per second. All images can be taken in a grey scale orconverted to a grey scale, and the grey scale can have any range, forexample, 0-255, no units. This corresponds approximately to a refreshrate of 0.2 seconds or faster. Consistent with the image capture device,the CPU can process at a rate of 100 frames per second, alternativelygreater than 200 frames per second, alternatively greater than 600frames per second.

The results of the image analysis, when compared to criteriapre-programmed into processor 50, may result in a desired modificationof skin 18. In such a case, for example when the calculated ΔL_(M)exceeds the pre-determined ΔL_(S), a signal is sent from processor 50 tocartridge 52, via cartridge line 51, to fire one or more nozzles 21 innozzle array 20 and dispense a pigmented cosmetic composition.

Power for cartridge 52, light 44, sensor 46, processor 50, and othermechanical and electrical elements that might be present can be suppliedby power element 54 via one or more power lines 55. Power element 54 canbe turned off and on, which in turn turns deposition device 40 off andon, via power switch 56 which can be located anywhere on depositiondevice 40, but is shown here on device cover 58. Power element 54 mayinclude energy storage functionality via a battery, a rechargeablebattery, an electrochemical capacitor, a double-layer capacitor, asupercapacitor, a hybrid battery-capacitor system, and combinationsthereof.

Turning now to FIG. 3, which is an exploded view of the cartridge 52comprising cartridge cap 62 and cartridge body 64. Cartridge body 64includes standpipe 66 which is typically enclosed within cartridge body64 and defines nozzle outlet 68. Optional filter 70 helps keepexcessively large particles, and other debris out of the nozzle array20. Filter 70 and nozzle array 20 are on opposite sides of nozzle outlet68. Pigmented cosmetic composition 74 partially fills cartridge body 64.Foam core 72 fills cartridge 64 and helps to regulate back pressure ofpigmented cosmetic composition 74. Back pressure can be regulated viabladders (not shown) and other methods known to the art, the foam coreshown here is just one example of how to help regulate flow of thepigmented cosmetic composition 74 to standpipe 66 through filter 70 andinto nozzle array 20. Connector 78 provides the electrical power andsignal to nozzle array 20. Pigmented cosmetic composition 74 may beejected from the cartridge 52 by piezoelectric means, thermal means,mechanical pumping means, or a combination of these.

Referring now to FIGS. 4, 5, and 6, which are photographs of the samefemale subject. FIG. 4 represents the subject's washed, natural, anduncoated skin. FIG. 5 was taken after the subject applied makeup to herface in a manner she would normally do. FIG. 6 was taken after thesubject's makeup was removed and her face treated with the depositiondevice of this invention. FIGS. 4, 5, and 6 are all taken on the sameday, with no appreciable sun exposure between photographs (i.e. thesubject was indoors for the entire modification period).

Tonal imperfections 101, 102, 103 and 104 are clear in FIG. 4. Aftermakeup is applied, tonal imperfections 101, 102, 103 and 104 are allstill visible as shown in FIG. 5. FIGS. 4 and 5 show that makeup changesthe overall tone of human skin, but does not cover up the tonalimperfections.

The subject washed her face to remove the applied makeup after thephotograph of FIG. 5 was taken. The subjects skin is then modified withthe deposition device of this invention and the photograph of FIG. 6 wastaken. Tonal imperfections 101, 102 and 104 from FIGS. 4 and 5 arelargely invisible in FIG. 6. Tonal imperfection 103 is barely visibleafter modification with the deposition device useful in the presentinvention. The deposition device provides a substantial and visiblechange to the appearance of human skin versus the natural condition ofthe skin and the skin with applied makeup.

The background L can be calculated anywhere within the image. The imageis taken where the nozzles will fire the pigmented cosmetic composition.The background L can be the arithmetic average, median, or mean of aplurality of local Ls, which means the calculation can include all ofthe local Ls in the image, or a subset thereof.

The predetermined ΔL_(S) is the absolute value of the difference betweenthe local L and the background L. This value, ΔL_(S), can be defined inabsolute numbers or as a percentage. The sensor is for example a camerathat takes black and white or color images, a spectrophotometer, orsimilar devices that are sensitive to electromagnetic energywavelengths. The images are taken, or converted to a standard grey scalethat is known to the art. It is understood that any numerical scale thatmeasures lightness to darkness can be considered a “grey scale”.Moreover, as used herein, “grey scale” is intended to be a linear scale,or one band, or one visual attribute. For example, one “grey scale”visual attribute could be single wavelength or a narrow wavelength todefine a specific visual color. Another example of one “grey scale”visual attribute could be a mix of wavelength numerical values averagedfor each pixel making up the image, such as a true black, grey or whiteimage from an RGB mixture.

It will also be understood to those skilled in the art that thebackground L value should not be too close to the ends of this scale.For example, if the grey scale is 0-100, with 0 being pure black and 100being pure white, a background in the 0-10 range, or in the 90-100 rangemay be too light or too dark to show meaningful differences.Accordingly, one can adjust the background lighting, or the gain on thesensor taking the image, to move the background L closer to the middleof the scale. In this example, a background L of 50 would be ideal, witha background L in the range of 10-90 preferred, 20-80 even morepreferred.

The most common grey scale is 0-255 (no units) and other examplesinclude 0-1024 and 0-4096. For a grey scale of 0-255, the differencebetween grey scale steps is at least 1/255. In this example, it would bedesirable to use sensor and lighting settings that provide a backgroundL value between 60 and 210. Using the 0-255 gray scale, the ΔL_(S) ispreferably at least 0.5, more preferably at least 1, and even morepreferably at least 1.5, to initiate modification of the skin surface.Likewise, ΔL_(S) can be measured as a percentage, for example, anumerical ΔL_(S) of 2.6 is approximately equal to 1.0% of a 255 greyscale. Thus, ΔL_(S) may be plus or minus 0.25%, preferably plus or minus0.5%, even more preferably plus or minus 0.75%, of the grayscale.

There is no technical difference between an image used for background Lvalues and those used for local L values, the difference is in theanalysis of the image. Hence, the images are continually sent to theprocessor to calculate the L values and ΔL_(M) values. By “sent” it isunderstood, that preferably at least 4 bits of data per pixel aretransferred for each image, and preferably, this 4-bit (or more) packetof data is used in the calculation of each local L value.

It is understood, that the background L can be calculated once in atreatment period and that value can be reused throughout the treatmentperiod. Alternatively, it can be continually recalculated as long as thetreatment process goes on. Moreover, there can be pre-programmedtriggers to initiate a recalculation of the background L. Also, thebackground L may be retrieved from the processor memory to be used forthe current background L. For example, if an extended period of timeelapses and no tonal imperfections are found, or if tonal imperfectionsare being found too frequently, a new background L might automaticallybe calculated. Likewise, ΔL_(S) can be a set value that remains constantthroughout the treatment cycle or it too can vary. ΔL_(S) can be resetduring the treatment cycle for any of a variety of reasons. If too manynozzles are firing too frequently, the ΔL_(S) can be adjusted to lowerthe intensity of the nozzle firing. Similarly, if the nozzles are firingtoo infrequently, ΔL_(S) can be adjusted in the opposite direction toincrease the sensitivity of tonal imperfection detection. Those skilledin the art will appreciate that modifying ΔL_(S) during modification isa matter of programming the processor to or with a desired algorithm.

When the ΔL_(M) exceeds the predetermined value, the tonal imperfectionis treated with the pigmented cosmetic composition. Treatment requiresfiring one or more of the nozzles which dispense the pigmented cosmeticcomposition onto the skin surface in the area of the tonal imperfection.

More specifically, the pigmented cosmetic composition is applied via anarray of nozzles and the local L is calculated along the length of, andin the firing range of, the array of nozzles. The “firing range” of anozzle will vary based on its size, type, the speed the device ismoving, distance from the target, and other parameters. Examples ofvarious types of nozzles suitable for use in the present devices aregiven below. In general, “near the nozzle” as used herein is meant tomean the image taken to calculate a local L value is close to the areaof skin surface where the pigmented cosmetic composition is deposited bythe nozzle (the firing range, or landing zone of the nozzle). Withoutintending to limit the invention, near the nozzle means the image shouldbe taken within a radius of about 2 cm, preferably about 1 cm, and evenmore preferably about 0.7 cm from the center of the nozzle.

An individual nozzle may be fired to deposit the pigmented cosmeticcomposition, or multiple nozzles can be fired at the same time. Thenumber of nozzles fired along the array of nozzles can be adjusted basedon the size of the ΔL_(M) and the size of the tonal imperfection.Furthermore, the frequency of nozzle firing can be adjusted based on theΔL_(M), with more droplets being fired in succession in response tolarger ΔL_(M) values.

Firing intensity curves can be programmed into the processor to adjustthe firing rate of nozzles. For example, if ΔL_(M) is equal to orslightly greater than ΔL_(S), then the adjacent nozzle is fired 1 time.If ΔL_(M) increases to 2*ΔL_(S), then the adjacent nozzle is fired 25times. If the ΔL_(M) is 3*ΔL_(S), then the adjacent nozzle is fired 100times. This non-limiting example is intended to show how the size of theΔL_(M) with respect to the ΔL_(S) can determine the amount, and hence,the intensity of the firing of the nozzles adjacent the tonalimperfection. Those skilled in the art will appreciate that plotting afiring intensity curve using 2, 3, or more data points, and thenprogramming that firing intensity curve into the processor are knowntechniques.

While inkjet cartridges are shown and exemplified herein, pigmentedcosmetic compositions may be applied with other “flow control” devicesor non-drop control devices. Flow control devices typically arecharacterized as “drop control techniques” where individual droplets ofthe substance are controlled. Ink jet printers, which are known to theart, are examples of drop on demand applicators and this technology isapplicable for use in the present invention. Piezo electric drop controldevices and other micro electromechanical systems are appropriate foruse with the current deposition device. Spray devices and electrostaticspray devices are non-drop control techniques where droplets areproduced and controlled only in aggregate. Often in a spray device, alack of individual droplet control, or “randomness” is desired in orderto produce a smooth application over a relatively large area. Bycontrast, it is often desirable to provide very specific control of theamount and placement of the compositions.

Examples of drop control can include “fine flow control” where the flowof the substance is precisely controlled to deliver droplets as desiredand “inkjet technologies.” An older inkjet technology includes supplyinga continuous flow of charged droplets past electrostatic deflectorplates which are alternately charged so that the plates either permit adroplet to pass or deflect to a gutter. Other inkjet technologiesinclude “drop on demand” such as thermal devices provided by HewlettPackard, and piezoelectric devices such as provided by Epson and otherprinter manufacturers. In one embodiment of the current invention, adrop on demand technology is combined with charging the droplets.

The deposition device useful in the present invention is preferablyhandheld but can be tethered to a structure that moves the depositiondevice across the skin surface to be modified. If handheld, the user cansimply move the deposition device across the skin surface to bemodified. Optionally, multiple deposition devices can be configured in astationary structure wherein the user places the skin surface to bemodified and multiple readings and applications occur simultaneously orin sequence.

The pigmented cosmetic composition can be applied to the skin surface byscanning and applying at the same time while making multiple passes overthe surface. Several advantages result from using multiple passapplication. The process for multiple pass applications is to make apartial application of the pigmented cosmetic composition, then to scanagain the area of skin surface that has received the partialapplication. A further application of pigmented cosmetic compositionscan be made, and still further multiple pass scanning and applicationscan be made to approach an aesthetic goal. Thus, the user can select theend point of the modification, i.e. the “aesthetic goal”, thus tailoringthe modification time to individual needs and preferences. Attempting tomake all corrections in one pass has been shown to overcorrect incertain areas.

In one aspect, the pigmented cosmetic composition is deposited ontoabout 1% to about 40% of the surface area of the user's skin for theskin regions that the device has been exposed to, alternatively lessthan about 20%, alternatively less than about 10%, alternatively lessthan about 5%, alternatively less than about 1%, alternatively less thanabout 0.5%. This can be desirable because it can provide a reducedtactile impact as more of the user's basal skin is exposed and notcovered by the pigmented cosmetic composition.

Inkjet devices, whether piezo or thermal, can generate droplets in therange of about 1 picoliter to more than 100 picoliters depending on theapplication. In the current system, it is desirable for the droplet sizeto be small enough to not be visible when deposited onto the skin, evenwhen observed from close distances. Without being limited by theory, itis believed that the largest discreet droplets that remain invisible tothe naked eye when on the skin are approximately 60-100 microns indiameter depending on the distance and visual acuity of the personobserving the droplet. The droplet volume of product varies depending onthe fluidic properties which include viscosity, surface energy, vaporpressure, etc. However, based on droplet geometry it is reasonable toassume that the maximum individual drop volume that can create surfacespot sizes less than 60 microns in diameter is approximately 100picoliters.

The deposition device may apply the pigmented cosmetic composition indroplets having an average diameter of from about from about 0.1 μm toabout 60 μm, alternatively from about 1 μm to about 50 μm, alternativelyfrom about 5 μm to about 40 μm. Preferably, the pigmented cosmeticcomposition can be applied to the tonal imperfection in a discontinuouspattern of discrete droplets.

Pigmented Cosmetic Composition

The pigmented cosmetic composition can hide or camouflage a tonalimperfection, such as hyperpigmentation, when deposited precisely andsubstantially only onto the tonal imperfection.

The pigmented cosmetic composition can comprise particles. In oneaspect, pigmented cosmetic composition preferably comprises a particlesettling rate of less than 0.06 mm per day at 25° C. and 1 atm pressure.The pigmented cosmetic composition may further have an elastic modulusbetween about 0.1 Pa to about 1000 Pa at 25C and 1000 Hz. Solid waxbased pigmented cosmetic compositions may have an elastic modulus of upto about 100 MPa. Preferably, the particles in the pigmented cosmeticcomposition have a refractive index of between about 1.1 and about 5.0.

In one aspect, the pigmented cosmetic composition can comprise anopacity of at least 0.2. In one aspect, the pigmented cosmeticcomposition can comprise an opacity of from about 0.2 to about 1,alternatively from about 0.25 to about 0.8, alternatively from about 0.3to about 0.5.

The pigmented cosmetic composition can comprise inks, dyes, pigments,adhesives, curable compositions, optically activated compounds, metaloxides such as iron, zinc, or titanium oxides, bleaching agents, texturereducing polymers, cosmetics, hair colorants, and combinations thereof.In one aspect, the pigmented cosmetic composition can comprise metaloxides comprising an average particle size of greater than 100 nm.

In one aspect, the pigmented cosmetic composition can be a skin carecomposition, hair care composition, hair removal composition (oftenreferred to as depilatories), hair growth stimulant, and mixturesthereof.

The pigmented cosmetic compositions can be delivered alone or in thepresence of a dermatologically-acceptable carrier. The phrase“dermatologically-acceptable carrier”, as used herein, means that thecarrier is suitable for topical application to the skin tissue, has goodaesthetic properties, is compatible with any additional components ofthe pigmented cosmetic composition, and will not cause any untowardsafety or toxicity concerns. The carrier can be in a wide variety offorms. Non-limiting examples include simple solutions (water or oilbased), emulsions, and solid forms (gels, sticks, flowable solids,amorphous materials). In certain embodiments, the dermatologicallyacceptable carrier is in the form of an emulsion. Emulsions may begenerally classified as having a continuous aqueous phase (e.g.,oil-in-water and water-in-oil-in-water) or a continuous oil phase (e.g.,water-in-oil and oil-in-water-in-oil). The oil phase may comprisesilicone oils, non-silicone oils such as hydrocarbon oils, esters,ethers, and the like, and mixtures thereof. Emulsion carriers caninclude, but are not limited to, continuous water phase emulsions suchas silicone-in-water, oil-in-water, and water-in-oil-in-water emulsions;continuous oil phase emulsions such as water-in-oil andwater-in-silicone emulsions; and oil-in-water-in-silicone emulsions.

In one aspect, the pigmented cosmetic composition can be oil-free.

The pigmented cosmetic composition can be delivered in a variety ofproduct forms including, but not limited to, a cream, a lotion, a gel, afoam, a paste, or a serum. Additionally, the pigmented cosmeticcomposition can include for purposes of proper formulation andstabilization anti-fungal and anti-bacterial components.

The pigmented cosmetic composition can comprise a humectant as a carrieror chassis for the other components in the pigmented cosmeticcomposition. An exemplary class of humectants include polyhydricalcohols. Suitable polyhydric alcohols include polyalkylene glycols andalkylene polyols and their derivatives, including propylene glycol,dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol andderivatives thereof; sorbitol; hydroxypropyl sorbitol; erythritol;threitol; pentaerythritol; xylitol; glucitol; mannitol; butylene glycol(e.g., 1,3-butylene glycol); pentylene glycol; hexane triol (e.g.,1,2,6-hexanetriol); glycerin; ethoxylated glycerine; and propoxylatedglycerine. Other suitable humectants can include sodium2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate; guanidine; glycolic acid and glycolatesalts (e.g., ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium); lactic acid andlactate salts (e.g., ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium); aloe verain any of its variety of forms (e.g., aloe vera gel); hyaluronic acidand derivatives thereof (e.g., salt derivatives such as sodiumhyaluronate); lactamide monoethanolamine; acetamide monoethanolamine;urea; sodium pyroglutamate, water-soluble glyceryl poly(meth)acrylatelubricants (such as Hispagel®); and mixtures thereof.

Colorants can be used to modify the color or reflectance of the skinsurface. Compositions comprising colorants are commonly used to modifycolor and reflectance in cosmetic make-up compositions. Foundation,lipstick, eyeliner are just a few examples of these make-upcompositions, but they are all applied evenly across large portions ofthe skin surface, that is they are macro-applications. In sharpcontrast, the present pigmented cosmetic compositions are selectivelyapplied on a very small scale to select areas, that is they are intendedfor a micro application. Suitable colorants for use in the pigmentedcosmetic composition can include inorganic or organic pigments andpowders. Organic pigments can include natural colorants and syntheticmonomeric and polymeric colorants. Organic pigments include variousaromatic types such as azo, indigoid, triphenylmethane, anthraquinone,and xanthine dyes which are designated as D&C and FD&C blues, browns,greens, oranges, reds, yellows, etc. Organic pigments may consist ofinsoluble metallic salts of certified color additives, referred to asthe Lakes. Inorganic pigments include iron oxides, ferric ammoniumferrocyanide, manganese violet, ultramarines, chromium, chromiumhydroxide colors, and mixtures thereof. The pigments may be coated withone or more ingredients that cause the pigments to be hydrophobic.Suitable coating materials that will render the pigments more lipophilicin nature include silicones, lecithin, amino acids, phospholipids,inorganic and organic oils, polyethylene, and other polymeric materials.Suitable silicone treated pigments as disclosed in U.S. Pat. No.5,143,722. Inorganic white or uncolored pigments include TiO2, ZnO, orZrO2, which are commercially available from a number of sources. Othersuitable colorants are identified in U.S. Pat. No. 7,166,279. Colorantsare generally included at a weight percent such that the pigmentedcosmetic composition yields a perceptible color. The colorant particleshape is typically spherical, polygonal or fractal. In one embodiment,the pigmented cosmetic composition exhibits a color that perceptiblydifferent from the color of the applicator. By perceptibly different,refers to a difference in color that is perceptible to a person havingnormal sensory abilities under standard lighting conditions (e.g.,natural illumination as experienced outdoors during daylight hours, theillumination of a standard 100 watt incandescent white light bulb at adistance of 2 meters, or as defined by CIE D65 standard illuminatelighting at 800 lux to a 1964 CIE standard observer).

The pigmented cosmetic composition can comprise an adhesive that iscompatible with skin surfaces. Commercially available adhesivescompatible with skin surfaces are available from the 3M Corporation ofMinneapolis Minn. See, for example: U.S. Pat. No. 6,461,467, issued toBlatchford, et al.; U.S. Pat. No. 5,614,310, issued to Delgado, et al.;and U.S. Pat. No. 5,160,315, issued to Heinecke et al., incorporatedherein by reference. In one aspect, a pigmented cosmetic compositioncomprising an adhesive can be selectively applied to the skin surfaceand a second pigmented cosmetic composition can be dusted on the skinsurface where can will stick to the adhesive. The second pigmentedcosmetic composition that is not adhered to the skin surface can then beremoved leaving behind a selective, micro application of the secondpigmented cosmetic composition.

Likewise, the pigmented cosmetic composition can comprise curablecompositions that cure upon exposure to certain wavelengths of energy,infrared light for example. In one aspect, a pigmented cosmeticcomposition comprising a curable composition can be selectively appliedto the skin surface and can be cured by exposing the skin surface to thecuring energy source. The entire skin surface can be exposed, or theexposure can be done at the same time as the application.

The pigmented cosmetic composition can be an anti-wrinkle compositioncomprising a tensioning polymer and/or film-forming polymers. Suitabletensioning polymers are described in US Patent ApplicationsUS20060210513A1, filed by Luizzi, et al. and suitable film-formingpolymers are described in US20070148120A1, filed by Omura et al.,incorporated herein by reference.

The pigmented cosmetic composition can comprise optically-activatedparticles. Sometimes referred to as “interference pigments”, theseoptically-activated particles include a plurality of substrate particlesselected from the group consisting of nylons, acrylics, polyesters,other plastic polymers, natural materials, regenerated cellulose, metalsand minerals; an optical brightener chemically bonded to each of theplurality of substrate particles to form integral units in the form ofoptically-activated particles for diffusing light. These particles canhelp to reduce the visual perception of tonal imperfections, includingcellulite, shadows, skin discolorations, and wrinkles. Each of theoptically-activated particles are encapsulated with a UV transparentcoating to increase the diffusion light to further reduce the visualperception of the tonal imperfections. The encapsulatedoptically-activated particles are able to absorb ultraviolet radiationand emit visible light; and the encapsulated optically-activatedparticles are able to both scatter and absorb light in a diffuse mannerin order to reduce the visual perception of tonal imperfections,including cellulite, wrinkles, shadows, and skin discolorations, whenthe optically-activated particles are applied to the skin surface.

The pigmented cosmetic composition can be a skin care composition suchas a moisturizer, a conditioner, an anti-aging composition, a skinlightening composition, a sunscreen, a sunless tanner, and combinationsthereof.

The pigmented cosmetic composition may comprise a safe and effectiveamount of one or more actives useful for regulating and/or improvingskin condition. “Safe and effective amount” means an amount of acompound or composition sufficient to induce a positive benefit but lowenough to avoid serious side effects (i.e., provides a reasonablebenefit to risk ratio within the judgment of a skilled artisan). A safeand effective amount of an active can be from about 1×10⁻⁶ to about 25%by weight of the total composition, alternatively from about 0.0001 toabout 25% by weight of the total composition, alternatively from about0.01 to about 10% by weight of the total composition, alternatively fromabout 0.1 to about 5% by weight of the total composition, alternativelyfrom about 0.2 to about 2% by weight of the total composition.

Suitable actives include, but are not limited to, vitamins (e.g., B3compounds such as niacinamide, niacinnicotinic acid, tocopherylnicotinate; B5 compounds, such as panthenol; vitamin A compounds andnatural and/or synthetic analogs of Vitamin A, including retinoids,retinol, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, retinoic acid,retinaldehyde, retinyl propionate, carotenoids (pro-vitamin A); vitaminE compounds, or tocopherol, including tocopherol sorbate, tocopherolacetate; vitamin C compounds, including ascorbate, ascorbyl esters offatty acids, and ascorbic acid derivatives such as magnesium ascorbylphosphate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, andascorbyl sorbate), peptides (e.g., peptides containing ten or feweramino acids, their derivatives, isomers, and complexes with otherspecies such as metal ions), sugar amines (e.g., N-acetyl-glucosamine),sunscreens, oil control agents, tanning actives, anti-acne actives,desquamation actives, anti-cellulite actives, chelating agents, skinlightening agents, flavonoids, protease inhibitors (e.g., hexamidine andderivatives), non-vitamin antioxidants and radical scavengers, peptides,salicylic acid, hair growth regulators, anti-wrinkle actives,anti-atrophy actives, minerals, phytosterols and/or plant hormones,tyrosinase inhibitors, N-acyl amino acid compounds, moisturizers, plantextracts, and derivatives of any of the aforementioned actives. The term“derivative” as used herein refers to structures which are not shown butwhich one skilled in the art would understand are variations of thebasic compound. For example, removing a hydrogen atom from benzene andreplacing it with a methyl group. Suitable actives are further describedin U.S. application publication No. US2006/0275237A1 andUS2004/0175347A1, incorporated herein by reference.

Consumer Test

A consumer test was conducted to evaluate the ability of four shades ofpigmented cosmetic composition to camouflage tonal imperfections acrossa range of consumer skin tones. The four shades evaluated were light,medium, medium-dark, and dark and correspond to Samples A-D,respectively.

Panelists were selected using the following criteria:

-   -   Skin condition: hyperpigmentation    -   Skin tone: Fitzpatrick Scale Type I-VI    -   All participants were female, age 25-65    -   No open sores or active acne    -   No participants had been to a dermatologist or esthetician for        any skin lightening procedures

41 panelists used 2 samples selected based on their Fitzpatrick ScaleType. The number of panelists for each Fitzpatrick Scale Type are asfollows: Type I and II: 6; Type III: 6; Type IV: 16; and Type V and VI:13.

Images of the right and left side of each panelist were taken atbaseline (bare, clean skin). The L*C*h* values for each panelist's facewere obtained using the LCh Test Method for Skin as describedhereinafter. The panelist identified her own skin tone and thecorresponding sample was selected. The sample was applied to one half ofthe panelist's face by the study coordinator using the deposition deviceof described above. After application of the sample, each panelistfilled out a questionnaire to assess the acceptance of the end look anda second “after” image was taken. The ratings were on a 100-point scaleas follows: (100) excellent, (75) very good, (50) good, (25) fair, and(0) poor. The same was repeated for the other side of the panelist'sface with a different sample selected by the study coordinator thatcorresponded to the panelist's skin tone as determined by the studycoordinator. The rating for each sample applied to the panelist wascompared and a preferred shade was selected. The data for the preferredshade was combined and reported in Table 1 below. If there was nopreference for a shade, the data from those panelists was excluded fromthe table.

Images were captured using a Canfield Visia System with setting thefollowing settings parameters—Lighting: Standard 2, CR2; DetectionThreshold: 6; Minimum Spot Diameter: 1.3 mm; Maximum Spot Diameter: 50mm; Masking: Cheek Only.

Table 1 below summarizes the results of the Consumer Test. The ΔL* iscalculated as the difference in the average L* of the sample—average L*of the skin. The ΔC* is calculated as the difference in the average C*of the sample—average C* of the skin. Visible spot reduction iscalculated by taking the difference in the spot area of the “baseline”image and the “after” image. Visible spot analysis provides quantitativedata and scoring for spots visible under standard daylight conditions.Visible spot reduction is reported as the % visible spot. The overallsample rating is reported as the average score from the panelists whograded each sample.

Samples A-D evaluated by the panelists correspond to Examples 1-4,respectively, described hereinafter.

TABLE 1 Overall Avg. Skin Avg. Skin Avg. Skin % Visible Sample Sample nL* Value C* Value h* Value ΔL* ΔC* Spot Rating A 8 62.9 19.9 60.4 20.64.6 −52.0 78.1 B 11 59.7 21.8 60.3 23.3 9.1 −57.2 88.6 C 10 54.8 22.360.5 22.9 14.2 −42.6 85.0 D 4 38.8 19.1 57.0 31.1 18.1 −48.4 75.0

It was surprisingly found that as the average skin L* value decreasedthe average delta C* of the cosmetic composition needed to increase. Itwas found that panelists with a lighter skin tone, for instance having aself-assessed Fitzpatrick Scale Type II-IV, preferred a sample with adelta C* value of 0 to 14, while panelists with a darker skin tone, forinstance a self-assessed Fitzpatrick Scale Type V-VI, preferred a samplewith a delta C* value of 8 to 21. It was also found that the delta L*between the sample and the skin ranged from 20 to 31. Finally, all foursamples resulted in a greater than 40% reduction in visible spots andall samples were rated by the panelists as very good or excellent.

In the same consumer test, a separate group of panelists were purposelygiven one sample with a shade outside of the preferred ranges. In eachcase, the “incorrect” shade was rated by the panelist as not preferred.This data is summarized in Table 2 below.

TABLE 2 Overall Avg. Skin L* Avg. Skin Avg. Skin % Visible SamplePanelist Sample Value C* Value h* Value ΔL* ΔC* Spot Rating 1 D 65.321.1 63.6 4.7 16.1 +53.4 0.0 2 D 62.3 20.5 56.9 7.7 16.7 +10.5 0.0 3 D55.6 22.5 57.6 14.4 14.7 −43.9 50.0

Panelists 1-3 each received Sample D on one side of her face. Panelists1 and 2 had an average skin L* value less than ten units lower than L*value of Sample D. In both cases, each panelist rated the acceptance ofthe end look as “poor” (0) because the spots on her face were not ableto be lightened enough to match the L* of the surrounding skin. Panelist3 had an average skin L* value of about 55 and the delta L* between thesample and her skin was 14.4, which falls within the acceptable ranges.However, the panelist rated the acceptance of the end look as only“good” (50) because Sample D had too much chroma for her skin tone.

EXAMPLES

The following examples further describe and demonstrate embodimentswithin the scope of the present invention. The examples are given solelyfor the purpose of illustration and are not to be construed aslimitations of the present invention, as many variations thereof arepossible without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.

The following 4 Examples are pigmented cosmetic compositions of thepresent inventions. They can be applied by any of the methods anddevices described herein, preferably, they are applied via a thermal inkjet printer head and cartridge combination. Dispersions were supplied byKOBO Products, Inc (South Plainfield, N.J.). PuraGuard™ Propylene Glycolwas obtained from Dow Chemical Company (Lake Zurich, Ill.). Symdiol® 68was obtained from Symrise AG (Branchburg, N.J.). Darvan® 811D wasobtained from Vanderbilt Minerals, LLC (Norwalk, Conn.). Sepiwhite wasobtained from Seppic (Paris, France).

Example 1

% W/W Phase Ingredient Description (as added) A WPG75PFSP 75% TiO2Slurry in Propylene 22.88 Glycol/Water A WPG45GYSP 45% Iron Oxide SlurryPropylene 2.74 Glycol/Water B Water Deionized Water 35.66 B PropyleneGlycol Propylene Glycol 22.50 B Symdiol ® 68 Hexanediol/Caprylyl Glycol1.00 B Darvan ® 811D 5% Sodium Polyacrylate in water 1.00 C WPG45SIRSP45% Iron Oxide Slurry Propylene 0.22 Glycol/Water D Water DeionizedWater 10 E Sepiwhite 5% Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine 4.00 in water Total100.00

Example 2

% W/W Phase Ingredient Description (as added) A WPG75PFSP 75% TiO2Slurry in Propylene 21.56 Glycol/Water A WPG45GYSP 45% Iron Oxide SlurryPropylene 6.20 Glycol/Water B Water Deionized Water 34.16 B PropyleneGlycol Propylene Glycol 21.99 B Symdiol ® 68 Hexanediol/Caprylyl Glycol1.00 B Darvan ® 811D 5% Sodium Polyacrylate in water 1.00 C WPG45SIRSP45% Iron Oxide Slurry Propylene 0.09 Glycol/Water D Water DeionizedWater 10.00 E Sepiwhite 5% Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine 4.00 in waterTotal 100.00

Example 3

% W/W Phase Ingredient Description (as added) A WPG75PFSP 75% TiO2Slurry in Propylene 17.19 Glycol/Water A WPG45GYSP 45% Iron Oxide SlurryPropylene 11.98 Glycol/Water B Water Deionized Water 33.61 B PropyleneGlycol Propylene Glycol 20.75 B Symdiol ® 68 Hexanediol/Caprylyl Glycol1.00 B Darvan ® 811D 5% Sodium Polyacrylate in water 1.00 C WPG45SIRSP45% Iron Oxide Slurry Propylene 0.47 Glycol/Water D Water DeionizedWater 10.00 E Sepiwhite 5% Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine 4.00 in waterTotal 100.00

Example 4

% W/W Phase Ingredient Description (as added) A WPG75PFSP 75% TiO2Slurry in Propylene 14.47 Glycol/Water A WPG45GYSP 45% Iron Oxide SlurryPropylene 14.75 Glycol/Water B Water Deionized Water 32.63 B PropyleneGlycol Propylene Glycol 19.90 B Symdiol ® 68 Hexanediol/Caprylyl Glycol1.00 B Darvan ® 811D 5% Sodium Polyacrylate in water 1.00 C WPG45SIRSP45% Iron Oxide Slurry Propylene 2.25 Glycol/Water D Water DeionizedWater 10.00 E Sepiwhite 5% Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine 4.00 in waterTotal 100.00

Examples 1-4 can be made according to the following procedure. First,the ingredients of Phase A are combined in an appropriate premixcontainer. The ingredients of Phase B are added into a main container.Phase B is milled using a dispersing instrument at low speed until themixture is homogenous. A suitable dispersing instrument is a digitalULTRA-TURRAX® available from IKA® (Staufen im Breisgau, Germany). PhaseC is then added to the main container while continuing to mill. Whilemilling, Phase A is added into the main container. Then, the premixcontainer is washed with Phase D and then poured into the maincontainer. The main container is mixed for 30 min. After mixing, themilling speed is lowered and Phase E is added. Homogeneity is ensuredand then the mixture is poured into a container, labeled, and stored atambient conditions.

LCh Test Method for a Composition

The L*C*h* values of a sample composition can be measured according tothe ASTM method D5326-94a, standard test method for color development intinted latex paint (Jul. 1, 2013). A color spectrophotometer (such as aDatacolor Check II® available from Datacolor, Lucerne, Switzerland, oran equivalent) is used to take a measurement under the followingconditions: Illuminant D65/10, Data CIELCh, Large Area View (LAV) 15 mmaperture. The color spectrophotometer is calibrated according to themanufacturer instructions. Then a reading is taken of the cuvette filledwith the sample composition and the L*C*h* values are recorded. Tworeadings are taken for each sample, and the average L*C*h* values of thetwo readings is reported.

LCh Test Method for Skin

The L*C*h* values of skin is measured according to the ASTM methodD2244-16 (Jul. 1, 2016), Standard Practice for Calculation of ColorTolerances and Color Differences from Instrumentally Measured ColorCoordinates. The skin of a user is cleaned and dried such that it issubstantially free of cosmetics and/or any other compositions. A colorspectrophotometer (such as a Datacolor Check II® available fromDatacolor Lucerne, Switzerland, or an equivalent) is used to takemeasurements of the user's skin under the following conditions:Illuminant D65/10, Data CIELCh, LAV 15 mm aperture. Thespectrophotometer is calibrated according to manufacturer instructions.Then a reading is taken of the user's left cheek and the L*C*h* valuesare recorded. Three readings are taken for each user in three differentareas of the cheek and the average L*C*h* values of the three readingsis reported.

The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood asbeing strictly limited to the exact numerical values recited. Instead,unless otherwise specified, each such dimension is intended to mean boththe recited value and a functionally equivalent range surrounding thatvalue. For example, a dimension disclosed as “40 mm” is intended to mean“about 40 mm.”

Every document cited herein, including any cross referenced or relatedpatent or application and any patent application or patent to which thisapplication claims priority or benefit thereof, is hereby incorporatedherein by reference in its entirety unless expressly excluded orotherwise limited. The citation of any document is not an admission thatit is prior art with respect to any invention disclosed or claimedherein or that it alone, or in any combination with any other referenceor references, teaches, suggests or discloses any such invention.Further, to the extent that any meaning or definition of a term in thisdocument conflicts with any meaning or definition of the same term in adocument incorporated by reference, the meaning or definition assignedto that term in this document shall govern.

While particular embodiments of the present invention have beenillustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in theart that various other changes and modifications can be made withoutdeparting from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is thereforeintended to cover in the appended claims all such changes andmodifications that are within the scope of this invention.

What is claimed is:
 1. An array of cosmetic compositions intended tocamouflage imperfections on human skin in a targeted manner comprising:a. two or more different cosmetic compositions, wherein each cosmeticcomposition comprises a metal oxide selected from the group consistingof zinc oxide, iron oxide, titanium oxide and mixtures thereof; b.wherein said two or more different cosmetic compositions each have an L*value, wherein the L* value for each of said cosmetic compositions iswithin the range of from about 60 to about 90; c. wherein one or more ofthe cosmetic compositions from the array will effectively camouflageimperfections on a consumer's skin if said consumer has an average skinL* value between 35 and
 75. 2. The array of claim 1 wherein the L* valuefor each of said cosmetic compositions is within the range of from about65 to about
 85. 3. The array of claim 1 wherein the L* value for each ofsaid cosmetic compositions is within the range of from about 65 to about85, and wherein one or more of the cosmetic compositions from the arraywill effectively camouflage imperfections on a consumer's skin if saidconsumer has an average skin L* value between 35 and
 75. 4. The array ofclaim 1 wherein said two or more different cosmetic compositions eachhave an opacity of at least 0.2.
 5. The array of claim 1 wherein saidtwo or more different cosmetic compositions each have an opacity of fromabout 0.2 to about
 1. 6. The array of claim 1 wherein said two or moredifferent cosmetic compositions each have an opacity of 0.25 to about1.0.
 7. The array of claim 1 wherein said two or more different cosmeticcompositions each have an opacity of 0.3 to about 1.0.
 8. The array ofclaim 1 wherein said two or more different cosmetic compositions eachhave a C* value, wherein the C* value for each of said cosmeticcompositions is within the range of from about 15 to about
 45. 9. Thearray of claim 1 wherein said two or more different cosmeticcompositions each have a C* value, wherein the C* value for each of saidcosmetic compositions is within the range of from about 20 to about 40.10. The array of claim 1 wherein said two or more different cosmeticcompositions each have an h* value, wherein the h* value for each ofsaid cosmetic compositions is within the range of about 50 to about 80.11. The array of claim 1 wherein said metal oxide has a particle sizefrom about 100 nm to about 50 microns.
 12. The array of claim 1 whereinsaid metal oxide has a particle size from about 200 nm to about 10microns.
 13. The array of claim 1 wherein said array comprises fromabout two to about ten different cosmetic compositions.
 14. The array ofclaim 1 wherein said array comprises from about three to about sevendifferent cosmetic compositions.
 15. The array of claim 1 wherein aidarray comprises four different cosmetic compositions.